Thinking about buying a car? Make sure you set aside some time to plan for this major purchase. After a home, a car is typically the second most expensive purchase anyone makes — and settling on a new vehicle is not a decision to make merely over a weekend.

Follow these 10 car-buying tips to make sure you get a car you can afford and will be happy driving for years to come.

1. Determine your budget

While you may have your heart set on a specific car, you won’t be able to take it home unless you can afford it. A good rule of thumb is to spend no more than 25 percent of your monthly household income for all the cars in your household. And this figure should include not only monthly car loan payments but all other vehicle costs, including fuel and car insurance. If you’re not sure how a new car would fit into your monthly expenses, use Bankrate’s home budget calculator to help you determine your monthly bills and necessary savings.

2. Decide: New, certified pre-owned or used? Buy or lease?

Thanks to a large number of lease returns, a wide array of used cars that are about three years old is currently on the market, making buying a used or certified pre-owned (CPO) car more attractive than in recent years. In addition, there are more inexpensive new cars available than ever before, making your choices positively dizzying, regardless of your budget.

You’ll be able to get the most car for your money if you buy used, though you’ll pay a higher interest rate, have a shorter warranty period and won’t know the car’s full history. If you lease, you might get a more upscale car for your dollars, but then you won’t own the car outright and will need to be careful about the lease terms to avoid hefty penalties. A new car for the same amount of money would have fewer features, but you’ll also have a full warranty and pay a lower interest rate, and often you’ll get free maintenance and roadside assistance.

3. Narrow your choices to a few cars

Start by researching the cars that have caught your eye to see if they fit your budget. Visit automaker websites and independent automotive information sites to assess the features that are important to you, and note MSRPs (manufacturer’s suggested retail prices) and invoice prices. Check local inventory listings to see what is available in your area. Choose cars that would cost at least 5 percent less than your monthly budget to give yourself some room to cover operating costs, including gasoline, insurance, repairs and maintenance. Print out or electronically save web pages that have pertinent details. Don’t, however, rush off to the dealership for a test drive just yet.

4. Assess your ownership costs

Using your short list of cars, determine if each would fit into your budget by estimating ownership costs. An auto research website such as Edmunds.com or Kelley Blue Book’s kbb.com would provide a general overview of ownership costs for your area, but these numbers will vary depending on your personal situation. For better accuracy, do your own calculation for fuel based on the number of miles you drive annually, and obtain an auto insurance quote on the cars you are considering that would apply to the drivers in your household. Make sure you give the insurance agent the exact model, including trim level, engine and sometimes certain options, to get an accurate quote.

5. Secure financing — before you visit the dealer

Dealers don’t just want to sell you a car, but they want to coordinate the car loan, too. That’s because they typically receive a flat fee or a commission on the auto loans they facilitate, regardless of whether the loan is from the manufacturer or a local lender. So, secure financing from a bank or credit union in advance and compare it with what the dealer offers. Find current interest rates on Bankrate, and check with local lenders, including credit unions, which tend to offer rates that are 1 to 2 percentage points lower, on average, than conventional banks. Many community credit unions are open to anyone living in their area, eliminating the need to work at a certain company or in a specific industry to join. 

6. Don’t assume financing at the dealership is the best deal

While you may be drawn to a certain car or brand because you saw an ad for a low-interest rate, it’s of no use unless you qualify. Only about 10 percent of car buyers qualify for the zero percent or low-interest-rate deals automakers offer. Even if you do qualify, you may be better off taking an automaker’s cash rebate and obtaining financing on your own at a bank or credit union. To find your best deal, first, find the best interest rate you can get and then use Bankrate’s Car rebate vs. low-interest calculator.

7. Learn the invoice price

The research you did on independent automotive information websites should have included the invoice price (for new cars) or wholesale price (for used cars), as well as the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (for new cars) or the dealer’s asking price (for used). While invoice pricing on third-party information sites isn’t 100 percent accurate, it is a good indicator of what the dealer paid for the car, and it’s the best place to start your negotiation. Aim to reach an agreement on the sale price that is close to that number before any discounts are applied, and keep in mind that the dealer needs to make at least a few hundred dollars’ profit to cover the operating costs of running the dealership.

8. Research all possible discounts in advance

You’ve probably seen the ads promoting cash-back deals, and these incentives should be deducted after you negotiate the price. In addition, many automakers offer discounts to students, military members and even members of certain credit unions. These discounts can be stacked and can be combined with the cash-back rebates on the model. Check automaker websites for these incentives in their “Current Offers” sections.

9. Take your time with the test drive

When you’ve completed all your research, call the dealerships you want to visit and make appointments for test drives with the internet or fleet manager. You can find the name of the right person at the dealership website. By reaching out, you’re establishing a relationship with someone who might be less likely to try to strong-arm you into a deal if you decide you are ready to buy after the test drive.

Since most car shoppers these days keep their cars for five years or more, take your time with the test drive to make sure you really love the car. Don’t hesitate to ask for more time behind the wheel to ensure you like the driving experience, and spend time in the car while it’s parked to adjust the seats, experiment with the controls and determine whether passengers would be comfortable and your regular cargo would fit well.

10. Use smart negotiating strategies

When you are ready to make a purchase and start discussing a price, keep in mind all the discounts you’ve researched, and — for the moment — forget about trading in your car as part of the deal. You’ll do better if you negotiate the sale price of your new car and the trade-in value of your old car separately. Make sure you have already researched your current car’s value online so you’ll know whether you are being offered a fair price when a trade-in is discussed.

Once you’ve reached an agreement to buy, be prepared to say “no” to all the extras you may be offered. Instead, say “no” and do the research at home for whatever add-ons interest you, and contact the dealership at a later date to negotiate fair prices for those items. When you are presented with a sales or lease contract, go over all of the details carefully, making sure that you aren’t paying any unnecessary dealer fees and that everything you negotiated verbally is spelled out in writing.

The auto industry is in the middle of a revolution, one where new and emerging technologies are steering the market. Such high-tech features are placing a tremendous burden on the typical vehicle’s 12-volt electrical systems and for this reason we’re seeing a new trend: cars equipped with 48-volt electrical systems. Not every new vehicle will feature such systems, but for those that do, there are strong benefits for manufacturers, consumers and the environment alike.

The Current Standard: 12-Volt Electrical Systems

Every vehicle’s electrical system is composed of a battery, starter and an alternator. Modern vehicles have 12-volt electrical systems, with the car battery serving as the center of that system.

Electricity flows out from the battery by means of the positive terminal through wires to power various components, including the starter. The starter stores a small amount of electricity to turn the engine, while the alternator helps keep the battery charged when the vehicle is running, by sending power back to the battery through the negative terminal.

Although 12-volt electrical systems have been the standard for decades, they’ve also been called upon to do more work in recent years, including powering water pumps and turbochargers, and to supply power to the computer, navigation and audio systems. As vehicles become more complex, manufacturers are exploring other options, including the 48-volt electrical systems.

Emerging Technology: 48-Volt Electrical Systems

There are two reasons why car manufacturers are planning for 48-volt electrical systems:

1) Such systems can handle more complex loads, including technologies related to autonomous vehicles.

2) Environmental benefits may be realized, through reduced emissions and improved fuel economy.

Suppliers such as Bosch, Continental, Delphi and Valeo are developing 48-volt electrical systems for manufacturers. These new systems will power such energy-intensive components as turbochargers, hybrid motors and stop-start motors, and supply electric power to the water pump, air conditioning, power steering and power brakes.

Does this spell the end of the 12-volt electrical system? No. In fact, future cars will likely run the two systems concurrently, with 12-volt systems powering the lights, center console, seats and windows, and 48-volt systems tasked with supplying energy for power-consuming components.

On the environmental side, 48-volt electrical systems will also allow manufacturers to transform some models into mild hybrids by replacing the starter with a 48-volt motor generator unit (MGU). Such vehicles would also gain a 48-volt lithium-ion battery pack and a DC-to-DC converter, creating the mild hybrid system.

A mild hybrid system utilizes both the gasoline engine and electric motor to power the car, with fuel savings of 15 to 20 percent possible. Like similar systems, mild hybrids offer another tangible environmental benefit: a reduction in emissions. In all, mild hybrids provide about two-thirds the benefit of traditional hybrids, but at just one-third the cost. Expect manufacturers to turn to such systems in an effort to meet ever-increasing federal fuel economy and emissions mandates.

Current Applications

You’ll currently find 48-volt electrical systems in a few models, including the Bentley Bentayga, which utilizes this system to power its electronic sway bars. While mechanically operated sway bars do a good job of reducing body roll in a turn, the electronic system is simply superior. That’s expected in a $230,000 super luxury SUV, but it’s only achieved with a 48-volt system.

Coming to a Car Near You

Most manufacturers haven’t said how and when they’ll implement 48-volt electrical systems, but you’ll be hearing about them, especially if you follow the major auto show and technology circuits.

For North American enthusiasts, upcoming auto shows in Los Angeles, Detroit, and New York may very well reveal where this trend is going regionally. The CES (Consumer Electronics and Technology) Show held in Las Vegas in early January should also provide some details.

When you walk into a dealership, you won’t be there long before a salesperson asks how you intend to pay for your new car.

When the dealer starts in, just explain that you intend to pay in cash. Saying you’ll be paying in cash doesn’t mean you’re going to open up a briefcase with bricks of money inside, it just means that you’re not interested in dealer or manufacturer financing.

In some cases (if you have perfect credit if the car is about to be replaced by a newer model) dealer-sponsored financing might be a good deal, but most of the time it isn’t. You can usually find better deals on car loans at credit unions and banks.

Telling the dealer that you’re not interested in their financing takes away an opportunity for the dealer to pad the deal with an extra profit. Dealers make money on charging you, so they have ways of slipping various extra fees and charges into your financing arrangement. Forgoing dealer financing also allows you to focus on the features and purchase price of the car you want — a far more important and useful task than focusing on the monthly payment figure.

After declining financing, your next task is negotiating the purchase price of the car. Some survival tips:

Resist the temptation to lease. Leasing is basically an extended car rental. When you lease a car, you must return it at the end of the lease or buy it from the dealer at a predetermined price — usually higher than what you’d pay for a similar used car. When you take a loan out to buy a car, you pay down the loan and then the car is yours, free and clear. The only payments you’ll have to make after that are for gas, repairs, and insurance.

Lots of people lease. Smart, respectable people lease. It’s not a terrible thing to do, but it’s not the best way to keep a car because you’re always making payments. Lease a car for three years and, when the term expires, you need to look for a new lease or shell out thousands to purchase the car you’ve been driving.

Consider factory certified pre-owned cars. “Certified pre-owned” is another term for “used.” But these cars do come with extra assurances about the car’s condition. Going pre-owned can be a really smart move because most cars lose 18% of their value in their first year. A certified pre-owned car is one that has been inspected and fixed before it goes on the market, and comes with a manufacturer-backed warranty like new cars do.

Size up your future car loan. Once you decide you want a new car, the first thing you should do is figure out how many cars you can afford. Calculate this amount before you go shopping; don’t let a car dealer influence your decision.

Figure out how big a loan you should get. A good rule of thumb: Your monthly car payment should be no more than 20% of your disposable income. That means that after you’ve paid all your debts and living expenses, take one-fifth of what’s left. That’s your maximum monthly auto expense. Ideally, this number should cover not only your car payment but also your insurance and fuel costs.

Decide how long you’ll give yourself to repay your car loan. A monthly payment is, essentially, the amount of your loan, plus interest, divided by the number of months you have to pay back the loan. The more months you have to pay it back, the lower the monthly payment will be. But stretching out a car loan too long—or any loan, for that matter—will ultimately cost you a truckload more in interest payments.

For example, say you take out a $20,000 car loan at 5%. If you borrow the money over four years, your monthly payment will be $460.59. At the end of four years, you’ll have paid $2,108.12 in interest.

If you borrow the money over ten years, your monthly payment will only be $211.12, but at the end of 10 years, you’ll have paid $5,455.72 in interest.

Keep your loan term to five years or less (three is ideal) and you should be in good shape. If the monthly payments are too much even for five years, the car you’re looking to buy is probably too expensive.

Consider all pools of money. Should you sell investments to pay for the car instead of borrowing at 7%? That’s a tough call; usually, we’d say no. Do not spend any of your tax-sheltered retirement savings (IRAs, 401(k)s), as you’ll pay through the nose in penalties and taxes and rob from your future. As for taxable investments, consider whether cashing out would have tax implications (you’ll pay 15% on capital gains for investments held longer than one year; investments held less than a year are taxed at your ordinary income-tax rate) or whether you may need that money for something else over the next two to three years.

Should you take out a home equity loan to pay for a car, since the interest of those loans is tax-deductible?

Many people think home loans are the perfect way to finance the purchase of a new car. But the length of the term for a home loan — most require payments over at least 10 years, with penalties for early repayment — will send your total costs through the roof, even after the tax savings. Borrow for no more than five years, lease (if you must) for no more than three. If you’re considering a home-equity line of credit to pay for your car, remember that most HELOCs have a variable interest rate, so it’s possible your payments will rise over time.

How to Find the Best Auto Loan

You’re going to show up at the dealer with your own loan, but where should that loan come from?

Begin by getting a sense of the prevailing rate for a new-car loan. Focus on is the APR or annual percentage rate offered by each lender. The APR is the annual cost of the loan or interest rate. With this number, you can cross-compare loans from one lender to another, so long as the duration of the loans is the same.

You’ll probably get the best deal at a credit union— a members-only, nonprofit bank that can offer lower-cost loans than a traditional bank can. But check out rates at traditional banks and online-only car lenders such as YouAutoMotive Auto Loans.

Don’t be distracted by dealerships offering rebates or zero-percent financing if you obtain your loan through them. “Zero-percent financing” means you are not charged any interest on the loan. So if you were buying a car that cost $24,000 and you had a 48-month car loan, your monthly payment would be $500, without any added interest. A rebate is a money taken off the price of the car. Rebates are also called cash-back deals.

Here’s the thing about those offers: The money you save via interest and rebates is probably coming from somewhere. If you qualify for 0% interest (and most people don’t, as it’s given only to people with near-perfect credit), your dealer won’t budge on the sticker price. If you take the rebate, you won’t get a rock-bottom or 0% interest deal.

That’s why splitting up the financing and purchasing of your car is a good idea: First, you can shop around for the best credit-union car loan, and then you go to the dealer and focus on negotiating the purchase price of the car. Bundling the transactions can lead to lots of stress and added expense — you may be so focused on financing costs that you the punt on the purchase price — to keep them separate.

If you do choose dealer financing, be extra vigilant about what you agree to, and what you’re signing—it’s not uncommon for dealers to add in various unnecessary fees (rustproofing, extended warranty) that fatten their bottom line. Question everything that wasn’t explicitly discussed during negotiation, and don’t be afraid to walk away.

There are some easy ways to catch a break with your dealer when negotiating the price of your car. Timing can be everything:

Shop early in the week. Weekends are prime time for dealers. But if you show up on a Monday, a salesman may be more motivated to cut a deal because business will be slow for the next few days.

Shop at the end of the month. Car dealers get monthly bonuses if they move enough metal. If you show up on the 30th and your salesperson is two cars short of a bonus, he or she may cut you a better deal so to make numbers.

Shop for a car that’s about to be replaced/discontinued. Pretty simple logic here: Things that are about to be considered “old” sell for less. If you’re looking at a 2008 Honda Accord and the 2009s are about to arrive at the dealer, you usually can get a bargain. If the 2009 model is completely new and different from 2008, you’ll save even more. (Who wants to be seen driving the old-looking model? Smart, frugal people, that’s who.) And if Honda decides the Accord isn’t selling much anymore and kills it after the current model year? (OK, fat chance, but this is just an example.) Untold riches await. As do potential maintenance headaches — remember, some cars are unpopular for good reason.